Saturday, October 31, 2009

Braising Season

Am I the only one who actually experiences a brief moment of genuine depression when I hear the first few notes of the closing theme song to The Splendid Table on public radio?

I have actually been known to re-listen to episodes three and four times -- don't tell anyone. Please?

Not because I find any particular episode more fascinating than the last, just because the show, in itself, is such a pleasurable escape. I feel briefly connected to a larger community of foodies - something I have been unable to duplicate in real life here in Boise.

It's comforting to hear Lynn Rossetto Kasear rhapsodize about the merits of anchovies and pity those people (poor fools) who think they don't like them. Just today she listed off the ingredients of her homemade ranch dressing today; anchovies (of course), vinegar, garlic, onion, mayonnaise, yogurt, buttermilk and parsley.

My husband thinks he doesn't like ranch dressing (thankfully, he does like anchovies) -- I aim to change his mind. I can't wait to start experimenting.

But, really, it's her advice on braising which is dear to my heart.

After years of Internet research and following the advice of various cookbooks, I had tried my hand at braising pretty much any form of animal protein I could lay my hands on. On top of the stove, in the oven, lid on, lid off, low and slow, not so low and slow, with a thermometer and without a thermometer.

Sometimes the dish turned out great, sometimes not. What utterly and completely frustrated me was that there was no consistency. I could never be absolutely sure that I could repeat a successful dish until .... now.

Lynne's advice on braising is to never EVER let the liquid boil, but I already knew that. Here's her very scientific way to know when it is the correct temperature.

"It should be just hot enough for an occasional bubble to form at the top.

Bloop.

Bloop."

Her words, not mine.